[Dixielandjazz] French Quarter Festival 2006 & Katirna.

[Brian Towers]

Hi DJMLers,

This account, written by New Orleans resident Susan Egnew, may be of 
interest to those who visit New Orleans for the FQ jazz Festival.  I had the 
pleasure of being there and I find she tells the story very well indeed.

There is an excellent "inter-active and hour-by-hour" map of the Katrina 
flooding available at
http://www.nola.com/katrina/graphics/flashflood.swf   This really shows the 
scope of the disaster and makes one realise what an enormous task faces 
those involved with the re-building.

Cheers,
Brian Towers

KBR International Jazz Band (our annual pick-up group for NOLA)
Magnolia Brass Band
Hot Five Jazzmakers, Toronto
___________________________________________________________________________

We're Jazzed You Were Here for the French Quarter Festival, 2006!


The French Quarter Festival, April 21-23, was a celebration of the New 
Orleans we love. A celebration of its jazz and of you who love it.  A 
celebration of the city coming back to life after its near-death experience 
due to the combination of Katrina's hurricane forces and man's failures.  A 
celebration of the miracle that this festival was taking place at all. A 
celebration that took place while the city was still mourning its huge, 
overwhelming losses and still struggling to recover.



The FQF was a source toward my healing and I think the city's healing from 
the recent deep emotional and economical wounds.  The healing source came 
not only from the beautiful old New Orleans jazz I heard, but also from you 
who came from many countries and this country to be here.  You came in spite 
of our losses and because of your love for this city's spirit and culture 
and your zeal to support us.  You contributed to our physical and spiritual 
rebirth.  I thank you and I celebrate you.



On Friday morning, at 10:00, the traditional parade opened the French 
Quarter Festival with flare and fun!  The musicians of many bands played 
their rhythmic tunes causing many feet to dance the second line down Bourbon 
Street; other happy faces lined the way to Jackson Square, cheering and 
clapping as the bands passed.  Three sunny, happy, warm/hot days were filled 
with jazz played on many stages.on Bourbon Street, Royal Street, Jackson 
Square, Waldenburg Park plus days and nights at Fritzel's.



It was a happy reunion to see and hear two New Orleans musicians, Dr. 
Michael White and Gregg Stafford on their stage by the River in Waldenburg 
Park.  In Jackson Square 44 New Orleans restaurants set up booths, the 
"World's Largest Jazz Brunch."  I was very pleased to see throngs of hungry 
fest goers enjoying the delicious food.



I spent most of my time with the international bands on Bourbon Street and 
in Fritzel's, because I love their old New Orleans jazz. The Kid Bastien 
Remembered from Toronto! The Happy Pals also from Toronto!  Jack McLaughlin 
from Australia!  In those bands were Marcello Bono from Switzerland, Kjeld 
Brandt from Denmark, Malc Murphy from England and others who traveled from 
other states and countries to be here. The joyous, harmonious notes from 
these talented musicians' instruments blended to make my toes tap, hands 
clap, face beam and heart soar.



Some special moments stand out.  I loved the deep rhythmic beat of Kid Dutch's 
sousaphone.  I marveled at Kjeld Brandt's clarinet melodies and his clear, 
rich notes weaving smoothly among the other instruments.  During each 
performance, Joe van Rossem's beautiful trumpet was such a pleasure to me; 
never overpowering and blaring.  It never hurt my ears (but it did damage 
Joe's upper lip).  Janet Shaw played her saxophone with such a lovely 
softness and rhythm, while Brian Towers added his trombone with low notes 
and jazzy beat.   A dynamic duo!  On Sunday morning, when Jack McLaughlin 
and Kjeld played their clarinets, I was often moved to tears by their 
beautiful spirituals.  Marcello Bono on piano always captured my attention 
with his finger-snapping rhythm whether he was taking his jazzy lead or 
supporting the band.  Malc Murphy made the drums sing and dance, never 
obtrusively, masterfully blending his rhythms with the rest of the band.  I 
was happy to meet a New Orleans musician in the mix, a great banjo player, 
Ron Simpson.  Kid Bastien Remembered was invited to play at the Palm Court 
Café.a snazzy, jazzy evening with dinner we had!  I could tell that these 
musicians were listening to each other and communicating with their 
instruments.  Amazing to me!  In addition, the tune, the key, the tempo. 
each was decided at the moment, and voila!  They made it look and sound so 
easy.



On Sunday I was strolling from Jackson Square toward Bourbon Street, away 
from all stages.  What should I hear coming from a small shop but jazz!  Of 
course I headed in that direction with zest.   Kid Dutch and Patrick with 
the Happy Pals!  A delightful surprise!  Those guys were everywhere!



In addition to the musicians, I was always happy to be with Brian and 
Heather Harris and Pam van Rossem, all from the Toronto area.  You three 
were lovely additions to my days.



During this music-filled three-day festival, I was always aware of Katrina's 
dismal destruction.  It was interwoven among the music and smiles.  I saw 
friends whom I knew lost most or all possessions in the flooding and their 
houses are gutted...that means empty.no walls, no doors.  Many of the New 
Orleans musicians I saw lost their homes and their instruments. As I 
delighted in the jazz bands, I became acquainted with several residents who 
were dealing with the frustrations that have come with rebuilding their 
homes and their lives.  Yet, they were there, enjoying the music and 
camaraderie. The hotels and restaurants did not have the staff they had 
before the storm, but they were there serving us with grace.  I finally 
realized on Sunday that the crocked lampposts I had been admiring for 
several days were not due to the old charm, but to the new Katrina effect. 
I loved the large sign that was outside Fritzel's, "Rebuilding New Orleans 
one note at a time;" it was also one more tug at my heart.



I am deeply grateful when I hear that a visitor sees first hand some of the 
devastated areas.  I feel seen, understood and embraced.  No TV, no 
photograph can convey the scope or depth of the destruction.  We who live 
here want you to see in person what we are coping with.  Some FQF visitors 
saw a good sample and were amazed.  I took one visitor on my version of a 
Katrina tour.  During the 6 hours, we stopped often, getting out of the car 
to try to take in the enormity of the losses.  Then  we saw details of 
shattered lives. We felt the emptiness.  The overwhelming loss.  The pain.



Before the tour, my friend said he thought he knew what to expect.  He didn't. 
He was overwhelmed by the devastation, by the miles and miles of it, 
wondering how we can ever recover.  And he saw only a small portion of the 
empty, damaged city.  No matter how many times I see these silent houses and 
businesses, like tombs, I shake my head in sad disbelief.



On Saturday, the citizens of New Orleans were having our historic primary 
election to determine our next mayor and other officials.  That morning I 
took time away from the FQF and drove to eastern New Orleans to vote.  On my 
way, I amazed to see flocks of cheering, dedicated people, many more than 
usual, standing at intersections with signs supporting their candidates. I 
was moved to tears seeing them.so many, so enthusiastic, so happy, waving to 
us driving by, holding their posters.standing with Katrina destruction all 
around them.  All over the city this was happening.  These spirited voters, 
with smiles and stamina in the hot sun, presented hope and inspiration to 
me.



My tears come easily when I see a sign of hope.  You who traveled to New 
Orleans with your zeal and love for New Orleans jazz and this city gave me 
signs of hope.  I thank you for being here. Thank you for your wonderful 
music and friendship. I know you will return.next year!   Thank you for my 
tears of joy and gratitude.



Susan Egnew

   I lived in New Orleans for 41 years, now living in Metairie.

   Having lived amidst so much heart-wrenching destruction since October, 
when I returned home, my experience of the FQF was inevitably colored by 
Katrina.  Among the many hurdles toward recovery, there are successes, I am 
happy to say.  At the same time, I am still feeling the pain of "missing New 
Orleans."  Every other resident I know is also.  Thank you for being gentle 
and patient with all of us and for your understanding as you read my FQF 
account.

   I hope this review is not too long; this is the short version!

   Those of you who were not here this year, do come visit New Orleans FQF 
in 2007.  Those who were here, I look forward to your return.   During your 
visit, have fun, enjoy the culture and take a Katrina tour!

   We in New Orleans will be jazzed you're here!

Susan Egnew.