[Dixielandjazz] CDR's for "audio"

[Larry Walton Entertainment - St. Louis]

I use the standard CD-Rs and get good CD's from my computers with rarely a 
bad one.  They seem to play in almost anything and my home CD is pretty 
finicky.  It sometimes skips all over the place with commercial CD's.

I guess I could be really dense but what is the advantage of the machines 
just for CD's with their music media?  It seems to me that using a computer 
and regular CD-R's is just about as good if not equal.  The school that I 
work for has a CD recorder that makes copies and you have to have more 
expensive media and finalize the recording each time.  I got one the other 
day that won't even load into my car CD.  It just instantly spits it out.

You guys with a lot more knowledge can fill me in.
Larry Walton
St. Louis
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Kashishian" <jim at kashprod.com>
To: <dixielandjazz at ml.islandnet.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 3:00 AM
Subject: [Dixielandjazz] CDR's for "audio"


>I have stated several times on DJML that if one is recording on stand-alone
> CD writers, you must use CDR's that state that they are for music 
> recording
> purposes.  These CD's cost considerably more than others.  Yes, supposedly
> some of the price goes to the artists (which ones?).
>
> And, if you're copying music from your computer, and at least hope to have 
> a
> lasting product, it would behoove you to spend the extra cash to do your
> copying on something that at least has some thickness to it!
>
> At first the stand-alone machines said the CD must only be 74 minutes, but
> since those are almost impossible to buy, the 80 minutes seem to work 
> fine.
> However, you must find a brand that your machine "seems to like"!
>
> I'm not being silly with that statement.  My two Marantz professional
> writers (about $3,000 each) will drop out of recording all by themselves 
> on
> certain brands.  I'm now down to using Philips AUDIO CD-R 80 minutes for
> audio CDR's (that's what's on the label), which are not easy to find.  I 
> buy
> them in Euros, naturally, but that must translate to about $2 apiece.
>
> I used Sony which I can't find any longer, TDK...which work about half of
> the time, and EMTEC which usually won't play on computers later.......  I
> used to use, exclusively, a U.K. professional brand called HHB (gold 
> disks),
> and suddenly they must have changed something in their CDR's ingredients, 
> as
> my two Marantz (which I had bought from HHB!) wouldn't even "see" their
> CDR's.  Said "no disk" when one was inside the machine!  Go figure!!!
>
> Dodgy area, these things, and I think they will disappear from the
> marketplace fairly soon...two years.
>
> If I were in this for just copying my own LP's for little money & fuss, 
> I'd
> buy that Teac.  If it doesn't sound all that good as the reports say, you
> can always play your CD's, once made, on your normal equipment.
>
> Me?  I will eventually get around to copying my collection, I'm sure, but 
> am
> too busy still working in the studio on daily work for that!
>
> How would I do it?  Most likely go out and buy a really good turntable &
> copy to DAT tape (it will mark the starts, and those can be edited easily
> after the fact if need be).  I would most likely pass the audio during 
> real
> time copying through my CEDAR DeCrackler & DeHisser between the turntable 
> &
> DAT recorder.
>
> Then, the ones I want to play around the house, I would go digitally from
> DAT to CDR.  The cuts are automatically copied from the DAT tape onto the
> CDR.  Why would I go to DAT?  An almost perfect storage medium....very
> small, & absolutely impossible to erase (put one in a magnetic field tape
> eraser & it does nothing to the audio!), and because of the excellent
> automatic cuts marking, which the CDR's are real bad at!
>
> Jim
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